Bittersweet Home, Alabama

One State’s Compelling Moment Makes Me Hit "Pause" On My Cross-Country Trek

I have to confess that when I first decided to walk across America to get to know my nation, I didn’t think Alabama would rank high on the list of most-illuminating states. I figured the state promised some regional charm, some southern hospitality, maybe some poignant tales of race relations and reconciliation with a difficult past. But who knew Alabama would beckon as a key crossroads for the various currents vying to define American identity and social cohesion?

As Washington increasingly cedes immigration law to the states, Alabama has displaced Arizona …