A Letter From São Paulo, Where the Definition of ‘Unbearable’ Has Shifted

As Brazil’s Death Count Rises, a Writer of Fantasies Embraces Realism in Quarantine

I’ve been training myself to be productive at home since I finished high school. The very idea of becoming a writer came from an interview with Patricia Highsmith that I read in the 1990s; the journalist described her life in a beautiful house near the mountains in Switzerland. Still a teenager, I thought this was the kind of life I wanted. Not necessarily Switzerland, I thought. A small apartment in the city could also satisfy my dreams of quietude, if I were able to work at home.

But my teenage dreams …

If You Want to Rule Brazil, Draw Power from the Streets

In a Country with Too Few Democratic Tools, Mass Protests Can Make or Break a Government

Last August, Brazil’s leftist President Dilma Rousseff was forced to step down from office after the nation’s senate voted to impeach her. But Rousseff’s true downfall came months earlier, when …

Even “The Girl From Ipanema” Can’t Save Rio’s Olympic Train

Why the Faltering Subway Line Exemplifies Brazil's Broken Promises

When the self-proclaimed greatest legacy infrastructure project of the Rio Olympics is a new metro line that stops eight miles short of the actual Olympic Park, you already know there’s …

Rio de Janeiro’s Violence Makes No Sense

A Journalist Grapples With Her City's Brutality

Every Wednesday, a farmers’ market sprung up in the cobblestoned square facing my Rio de Janeiro apartment. The clank and bang of vendors building makeshift stalls woke me up at …

American Sports Are Making Gains Across the Globe

Basketball Players Like Brazilian League Star Larry Taylor Serve as Unlikely Ambassadors for U.S. Culture

During the Brazilian basketball league’s recent all-star ceremony, held at an upscale lounge in São Paulo, Larry Taylor climbed atop a stage and started rapping his new hip-hop single, “Be …

Why Don’t Brazilians Care More About the Amazon?

If a Former Environmental Activist Is Elected President, Brazil Will Have to Remember Its Bloody Fight Over the Rainforest

Entry into the Casa Chico Mendes Museum is free, but it’ll cost you $20,000 to visit the environmental activist’s assassin. He lives down the street–if you’re interested.

I was. I recently …