You Can Become Mexican Again
Going Back to the Place I Was Born After 30 Years Wasn’t Straightforward. But I’m Still Here.
The Metropolitan Cathedral, the majestic 16th-century church in the heart of Mexico City, tilted slightly to the left, pulled into the soft earth by the weight of its own stones. Twenty-five bells ringing inside two giant towers echoed off the palaces enclosing Zócalo square, which in the twilight felt too unoccupied for a New Year’s Eve. The bells sang their melancholy song, swinging between hope and dread. Dread and hope.
The year was 1994. The peso was tumbling, and the country seemed to be falling apart. Yet here I was. Ecstatic. …
