Come for the Fish, Stay for the Story

Sushi Chefs Speak With Their Hands. Thank Goodness California Is Letting Them Keep Talking.


As you enter a sushi restaurant, it may be the invigorating aroma of cypress—the hinoki countertop that is meticulously sanded down, daily, to a feathery finish—that greets you. It may be the warmth of a cup of bitter green tea that melts a chill, or the soothing steam of a hot oshibori towel that wipes your stress away.

What follows is an intimate storytelling session by a chef who has seen many fish through many seasons.

A slice. A dab of wasabi. A gentle press and a flip followed by …

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