A ‘Glittering and Golden’ Museum to Mexico’s Drug War Is Heavy on Trinkets and Light on Tragedy

The Private ‘Narco Museum’ Documents One Side of the Story—Perhaps Someday the Public Will See the Whole Picture

Amid the gridlocked streets of northern Mexico City lies a fascinating and surreal museum that is not open to the public. Officially called the Museo del Enervante—a rather dull technical name that could be translated as the Museum of the Stupefacient—it is better known as the “Narco Museum.”

Located inside the sprawling complex of the Ministry of National Defense, the headquarters of the Mexican army, the museum gets its unofficial moniker because it displays the craziest artifacts that Mexican soldiers have nabbed from drug traffickers. Vials of marijuana, crystal meth, …

How This Journalist Is Surviving Mexico’s Drug Wars

Act Like a War Correspondent, Think Like a Detective, and Dream Like a Poet

In early 2007 I lost a plane ticket that I had purchased to travel to Africa. My plan was to arrive in Nairobi and stay two months, since the World …

Will It Ever Be Safe To Be a Journalist in Mexico?

If the Answer Is Yes, We’ve Got to Find New Strategies

Violence against the press has long been a pernicious problem in Mexico, but the current wave of drug wars, which began in 2006, has been particularly deadly for journalists. Reporters …

Will Mexico Conquer or Conk Out?

Shannon K. O’Neil Sees America’s Southern Neighbor At a Crossroads

Council on Foreign Relations Latin America analyst Shannon K. O’Neil, author of Two Nations Indivisible: Mexico, the United States, and the Road Ahead, was amazed by the enthusiasm she felt …

Should You See This Gruesome Image?

Thoughts Of a War-Zone Photographer On Using the Lens For Good

Last March, responding to news of a killing, I found myself walking in the darkness at a crime scene in Quila, a small community outside Culiacán in Sinaloa, the state …

When Bullets Turned To Ballads

Juárez, the War-Ravaged Border Town, Welcomes Back Juan Gabriel, and Hope

CIUDAD JUAREZ – This city, along with its prodigal son, the mega-star known as Juan Gabriel, has seen better days—we all have. The world-renowned singer with the thinning, dyed hair, …